July 2006

Men's Wedding Fashion

by Rebecca Walker

photo by Elizabeth Messina

There's so much talk about the bride's gown, her shoes, hair, earrings and more that sometimes we forget about the guy that's going to be standing next to her! Even if you don't have the figure of a GQ model, you can show your style by choosing the correct tuxedo for your body type.

Tall And Slender : Lucky you! With your streamlined physique you can pull off nearly any style, but tall and thin men look great in double-breasted jackets. Shoulders should be padded a bit more than normal, and the trousers should be full with a higher rise.

Tall And Wide : The shawl collar tux is the perfect choice. The jacket is usually single-breasted with one button, and the trouser legs should be slightly wider if you have large or muscular thighs. Avoid thin bow ties; instead choose a tie that is in proportion with your face and neck. Also, avoid any extra frills and bulk.

Short And Broad : The shawl collar tux is a good choice, single-breasted, with the button around the belt line to make your torso appear longer and leaner. Choose a jacket with shoulder padding, and consider pleated trousers. Avoid wing-tip collars and very small ties if you have a large face or neck. If you are on the heavier side, consider a vest over the traditional cummerbund.

Short And Thin : A single-breasted jacket with a low, single button will lengthen the lines of your look. If you'd like to appear broader, a notched or "peak" lapel is a good choice, or you can create the same effect with a double-breasted jacket. The trousers should be pleated with reverse double pleats, and the trouser legs should break just above the shoes, angling slightly downward in back. Smaller bow ties are the best choice for your frame, as are vests with an elegant, understated pattern.

Essential Elements


Tuxedo Shirts: There are various types of tux shirts, including the ¼" pleated shirt and the wider, very elegant ½" to ¾" pleat. There are also three types of collars: the wing collar, where you can see the whole bow tie; the laydown collar, which reveals only the bow and knot; and the band collar, with which no tie is worn (instead, a cufflink-like fastener closes the shirt at the throat).

Studs And Cufflinks: Although tuxedo shirts are available with button cuffs, French cuffs fastened with cufflinks are a common choice. Most tux shirts button down the front, but also offer special buttonholes below the neck for the insertion of shirt studs. They come in sets of four and should match your cufflinks. Cufflinks and studs run anywhere from $20 to $100, and are usually made of onyx or mother-of-pearl, surrounded by gold plate or silver.

Look for unusual button covers, studs, or cuff links to add punch to your tuxedo. These small, but significant additions will distinguish a standard tuxedo with that "rented" look, and instead put you in a formal class by yourself.

Accessories

Love the look of a classic tuxedo, but want to add a little of your personal style? Properly chosen accessories are a great way to add panache to your wedding attire. Distinguish yourself from the rest of the penguins with stylish accessories that allow you to express yourself. Traditionally, the groom chooses accessories that match the bride, and the groomsmen match the bridesmaids. A more interesting alternative, though, is to widen your color palette to include colors that don't necessarily match, but instead coordinate.

The Vest

If you're looking for a sleek, modern look choose to express your individual style with a tuxedo vest. Available in styles that range from three to seven buttons, vests are available in a plethora of colors and patterns. Phyllis Cambria, veteran party and wedding planner, suggests choosing a vest with a full back if you are planning to remove your jacket any time during the wedding, because "there's little else that looks as tacky as seeing a wrinkled shirt back with just a narrowribbon of your vest's fabric fastened at your waist."

The Cummerbund

The pleated belt the British brought back from India is a perfect tuxedo accessory if you're slender and aren't planning to do a lot of dancing at the wedding - cummerbunds draw attention to your midsection. They are also fussy accessories that tend to ride up if you move around a lot.

The Tie

It's easy to express yourself through a tie because there are several distinct options to choose from. The four-in-hand is closest to a regular suit tie, and comes in every color, pattern, and style you can imagine. Formal silk or satin bow ties and cummerbunds are forever. However, many men opt for a gray or black satin classic tie instead.

The (do-it-yourself) bow tie is usually reserved for more formal occasions, and goes well with a   formal wing-collared shirt. Choose an ascot if you're wearing tails or a morning/cutaway coat. Just remember: anything clip-on should be avoided; ties that are hand-tied look best.

A Final Word ...

If your choices are limited, or you prefer a traditional look, opt for a shawl collar jacket. It's a classic, and you can't go wrong. Also, black tuxes are always the most slimming, and vests are a wiser choice than cummerbunds for anyone wanting to seem slimmer.

...Now That's Theskini!::permalink


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