July 2004

Pink Passion

by Martina Priadka

When I was growing up, there were meal times and then there were celebratory dinners. I knew the difference because during those dinners in which we were honoring a birthday or moment in history the wine began to flow. Small, cut crystal glasses came out of the china cabinet and everyone was treated to a little of this fine, pink beverage we called “blush”.

Now that I have many more years of wine drinking behind me and have developed a passion for wine, I have been put in charge of the wine choices for family dinners. We still drink pink wine from time to time but now we call it rosé and much to the dismay of my grandfather, it comes from a bottle instead of box.

Many people in the US have their first run in with pink wine in the same manner I did or in the American phenomenon known as white zinfandel. Being a wine lover, I enjoy the fact that there is a wine for everyone including people like my grandfather who prefer boxed wine to all others. But for those of you who are feeling a little bored with the boxed choices or are feeling a little adventurous there are other pink options for you to choose.

Rosé is the French word for pink and Tavel is the most famous of the wines in this category. The south of France is romanticized as the place for relaxing by the sea, smelling lavender and sipping something pink. Once you do this you forget the pink wine you grew up with and get hooked on what is created by those crazy French.

Tavel is a little town in the south of France not far from Châteauneuf-du-Pape. They grow white and red grapes but only make rosés. The wine is made by placing the grapes together and allowing the weight of them to crush out the juice. Although several grape varietals are used, granache is one of the most prevalent. Depending on which producer you choose the percentages will be different which affects the final product. The wines created here in general are exceptionally dry, very berry and sometimes spicy. They can also give off aromas and flavors of strawberry, butterscotch or herbs. They are a little rough around the edges at times and are best served chilled. Garlic and olive oil type foods really maximize the enjoyment of this wine as well.

When choosing a pink wine it is important to consider the situation. Where are you going to be, who is going to be there and what food are you having. If you are having a summer dinner party in your backyard you might want to go for a Tavel such as Paul Jaboulet. If you are packing for a trip on a houseboat (see travel page) you might want to choose something a little sweeter like the Les Jamelles, Cinsault. For a dinner with family you could try to track down a bottle of Portugese, Mateus if you are lucky or the good old-fashioned Franzia if you are not.

But on these hot summer days you can be sure that trying a bottle of Tavel while relaxing outside will give you happy memories that will keep you wanting more and more.

Best bets for Tavel producers:
E. Guigal
Chateau d’Aqueria
Chapoutier
Jaboulet

...Now That's Theskini!::permalink


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